There’s one thing you won’t see on the glossy showroom brochure: how easily your kitchen quote can double by the time the last tile goes down.
The price tag you’re shown?
That’s just the starting line.
And unless you know what each part of the job really costs, you’re walking blindfolded into a contract that could drain thousands more than expected.
Let’s change that.
You’re about to get a clear, honest breakdown of what kitchen fitting costs: what you should pay, what to skip, and how to avoid the financial sinkholes no one warns you about.
What you’re actually paying for (and what you shouldn’t be)
You’re not just paying someone to screw cabinets to a wall.
Here’s what typically goes into a kitchen fitting bill:
- Unit fitting – This is usually charged per unit. Expect to pay around £90–£120 per unit, depending on complexity and location.
- Worktop installation – If it’s laminate, this might be included in your unit fitting. Granite, quartz, or solid wood? Different ballgame. Can cost £300–£800 or more just for cutting and fitting.
- Removal of the old kitchen – Budget another £90–£150, plus £250–£400 for skip hire.
- Plumbing – Moving the sink or dishwasher? That’s extra. Rough cost: £200–£400.
- Electrics – Want under-cabinet lights, socket relocations, or appliance wiring? That can range from £300–£600+, depending on scale.
- Tiling, plastering, decorating – These finishers can sneak in at the end. Expect £200–£800, depending on area and wall condition.
What you shouldn’t pay for:
- Padding around vague “labour” charges
- Mystery add-ons like “project management fees” unless you’re hiring a company to handle everything
- Premiums for basic work like assembling flat-pack units — unless you’re asking for miracles with uneven walls
How kitchen fitters calculate their prices
Fitters charge in three main ways:
- Per unit – Transparent and predictable. Great for small kitchens or clear-cut jobs
- Day rate – Usually £250–£350 per day. Ideal when there’s extra work or unknowns involved
- Project price – You get a flat figure upfront, but make sure it’s itemised or you’ll never know what you’re paying for
Factors that swing your price wildly:
- Size – More units, more cost. Simple.
- Layout – Galley kitchens are easier than odd-shaped or open-plan designs with feature islands
- Access – Top-floor flats with no lift? That’ll cost more.
- Your postcode – London prices can be 30–50% higher than in northern England or Scotland
- Prep work – Old kitchens with hidden water damage or dodgy wiring? Expect delays and extra fees
One sneaky trick some fitters pull?
Quoting low, then charging “extras” once the job starts.
Always ask for a breakdown.
Real examples: What different kitchens really cost
Let’s look at what real-world kitchens might cost to fit, excluding units and appliances.
Small kitchen (5 units)
- Unit fitting: £450–£600
- Plumbing & electrics: £250–£350
- Worktop: £200–£400
- Removal & skip: £300–£500
Total: £1,200–£1,850
Medium kitchen (10–12 units)
- Unit fitting: £900–£1,300
- Plumbing & electrics: £500–£700
- Worktop: £400–£900
- Removal & skip: £300–£500
- Finishing (tiling, painting): £400–£800
Total: £2,500–£4,200
Large kitchen (15+ units, island, full rewire)
- Unit fitting: £1,350–£2,000
- Plumbing & electrics: £700–£1,200
- Worktop: £800–£1,500
- Removal & skip: £400–£600
- Finishers: £700–£1,000
Total: £3,950–£6,300
Want to cut the cost? Here’s what actually works
Here’s the truth: saving money doesn’t mean cutting corners. It means cutting waste.
1. Rip out the old kitchen yourself
It’s messy and tiring, but if you’re physically able, you could save £300–£500. Just be careful not to damage pipes or wires.
2. Simplify your layout
Straight runs cost less than L-shapes or islands. The more symmetrical and compact your design, the cheaper it is to fit.
3. Skip the showroom installer
Big-name showrooms often subcontract local tradesmen, then charge you double. Source your own recommended fitter and you’ll often save 20–30%.
4. Be ready
I once worked with a client who delayed their fitting three times because the floor wasn’t done. The fitter charged for lost days. Moral? Have your space prepped and your units on-site before the job starts.
5. Get at least three quotes
The difference can be shocking. One recent client received quotes of £1,800, £3,250, and £4,400 for the same job. Nothing beats comparing.
The one question to ask every installer before you say yes
“Can you give me a fully itemised quote with each cost listed separately?”
If they hesitate, walk away.
An honest fitter will have no problem doing this.
An unclear quote means you’re one surprise charge away from blowing your budget.
Bonus tip: ask if the quote includes VAT.
You’d be amazed how often that little detail slips by… until it’s too late.
Final cost vs. final regret: Why cheap can get expensive
Yes, you can get someone to do it for less.
But if they cut corners, rush the job, or don’t come back to fix snags, you’ll be paying again to get it put right.
And the second job is always harder and more expensive.
One couple I worked with had a “bargain” fitter skip sealing the worktop joins.
Water got in. The particleboard swelled.
Three months later, they had to replace half the kitchen.
That £400 they saved? Turned into a £1,200 repair.
There you have it.
You now know what kitchen fitting should cost, where the common traps lie, and how to keep your money working hard without cutting quality.
- Don’t overpay
- Don’t under-ask
- And definitely don’t assume the quote tells the whole story
Need help planning your next kitchen update or comparing quotes? Bookmark this page or share it with someone about to start their kitchen journey.
